The Chinese Do Something Genius With Cabbage and Eggs

One technique video, and the trick starts before the cabbage ever hits the heat: half a head torn by hand into bite-size pieces, the firm ribs cut smaller and kept apart, the leaves washed twice and patted dry so they fry instead of steaming. Three eggs are scrambled soft in the wok and taken out at once — the answer to softening cabbage without overcooking the eggs — while onion, garlic, scallion whites and a red chili build the aroma and thin carrot strips soften in it. Ribs go in first for a minute’s head start, leaves follow for far less, then the eggs return with the scallion greens, three tablespoons of soy and a tablespoon of unagi, the sweet Japanese glaze that is the twist. Off the heat immediately: the sweet cabbage inside a good spring roll, in bigger, juicier pieces.